For the most part, the average person can make it through the day without breaking any major rules of etiquette. One doesn’t have to be the Queen of England to say “please,” and “thank you” when appropriate. 

When it comes to weapons, however, all bets are off.

It is understandable. Despite whatever education a person has, likely they’ve never been taught the correct way to handle a weapon. Usually, this isn’t a problem, since most people aren’t exposed to such items in their day-to-day lives. For those newly introduced to martial arts training, however, there will come a time when they will be training with weapons. Learning such skills can be tough enough without also worrying about breaking the rules. 

Are you supposed to bow to the weapon? Do you need to draw blood every time the katana is unsheathed? How do I keep from looking like an idiot?

In case you are wondering, no, you do not need to bow to the weapon. No, you do not need to cut yourself or anybody else when you draw a katana. As to acting like an idiot, really there aren’t that many rules, but they do need to be followed.

It is a good bet that the earliest forms of etiquette had to do with how armed people should respond to one another. When everybody knows the ground rules, there are fewer surprises and less chance of being hacked to death over a misunderstanding. The Western habit of shaking hands in greeting originated among German duellists. By reaching out with their sword hands, both men could be assured of a peaceful conversation. Likewise, the samurai warrior of old Japan would refrain from twisting the sword scabbard in the sash he wore, as it could be interpreted as a precursor to a surprise attack. A violation of these rules could be at best insulting, and at worst a deadly provocation.

Unfortunately, even the slightest breach of the proper protocol could result in a killing. Brushing against the scabbard of a katana could be considered a challenge, with immediate consequences for the offender. It must have made for interesting scenes when a samurai chose to walk down a crowded street.

Safety, of course, should be the first thing on a person’s mind when dealing with any weapon. A maxim commonly heard among gun owners is “never point the muzzle at anything you are not willing to destroy.” Although it is highly unlikely the sword in your hand will accidentally discharge, that doesn’t mean someone should treat the weapon casually. Always assume the blade is sharp. With any weapon, there should be no horsing around – a cut inflicted by accident hurts every bit as much as an intentional wound. 

There are a few simple rules that must be followed if you intend on handling weapons

* No picking up a weapon without permission.
* No blades are unsheathed without permission
* Fingers never touch the blade.
* Absolutely no horseplay

Edged
Blades need careful handling for two reasons. First, and most seriously, is the potential for cutting oneself or others. The second issue is the metal they are made of.

There are several ways to test an edge for sharpness. The uninitiated have been known to run a finger down the length of the blade. Although the resulting cut will prove the blade is sharp, there is a safer method. Rub a thumb across the edge, not along it. The more the edge provides resistance, almost “sticking” to the thumb, the sharper it is. Another way is to use the blade to shave a small curl from the flat of a fingernail. A blunt knife will not be able to accomplish this. For that matter, you should also question yourself as to why you need to know how sharp a blade is. If there is no overwhelming necessity, then just look down the edge instead of rubbing your finger all over the blade. If you see a black line, then the knife is sharp. A silver line indicates a dull blade. 

If you are handed a sword do not swing it. This is a general rule for weapons, and if you break it, you can expect that the tour of the collection is officially over. 

An aggravating, but less serious problem is with people touching the bare steel of a blade with their hands. Human skin oil is mildly acidic, so that a fingerprint left on a knife will eventually rust and etch the metal. Occasionally there will be a situation where it might be awkward to only hold the weapon by its hilt, for instance, when you want to take a closer look at the blade. Grip the blade through a handkerchief or tissue paper to keep your skin oils away. 

If you accidentally put a fingerprint on it, wipe it clean. Far too many collectors have unsheathed a knife or sword only to discover that somebody put their hands on the metal at some point, and it is now time for some clean-up work with the steel wool and oil. If it is an antique or presentation blade, it needs to go to a professional for adequate care.

Playing with Weapons
One would think otherwise rational people wouldn’t need to be warned not to play with weapons. Well, one would be wrong to assume so. 

For most, the last time they wielded anything was a pretend sword as a child. The idea that such items are dangerous may truly never occur to them. As a result, you might get a short lecture on safety before you are allowed to handle any weapons.

Rather than feeling insulted, put yourself in the owner’s position for a moment. He has probably seen novices turn into a reincarnation of Bruce Lee, complete with animal noises as soon as they got their hands on a pair of nunchaku. 

The corollary to this occurs when an imprudent owner provides a demonstration first. For instance, he flicks a balisong knife open with a series of fancy twirls, then closes it with a flourish before handing it to you. The temptation and implication is to try and emulate what you just saw, which can be a hazard to yourself and anyone around. Again, the “no horseplay” rule comes into effect here. Open the knife with care, admire it, and close it just as carefully before passing it back As your mother said when lecturing you about the bad kids in the neighbourhood, “if they jumped off a bridge, would you do it too?” 

In Japan, there were strict procedures for the inspection of a weapon. For instance, when handing a sword to someone else, the hilt would point to the receiver’s left, so that he couldn’t draw and attack using that weapon without a little juggling first. The sword would be unsheathed slowly and only part way, ostensibly to allow the guest to inspect the blade closely. Rarely, and only with the owner’s urging, would the sword be drawn entirely from the scabbard. More than just good manners, the prudent samurai used these rules to prevent possible ambush.

Many schools have a set of rules conspicuously posted next to the weapons rack, usually restricting access to higher-ranking students. If you are unsure, assume that the weapons are off-limits.

In a social situation, the Japanese warrior would, like John Wayne might say, “check his gun at the door.” His katana would be stored in a sword rack until he was finished his visit. Instead, he would be armed with his shorter wakizashi. Any samurai household would have proper racks available, since when not in use or being worn, a sword would never just be left lying around. In addition to showing proper respect for the weapon, it prevented anybody accidentally stepping on it (possibly damaging it, or themselves) or stepping over it (considered an insult worthy of retribution). 

The racks served another purpose, keeping the sword instantly ready for use. The hilt pointed to the right, which facilitated a faster draw. Likewise, the sheathed sword would be stored edge up, in the same fashion that the warrior carried it. 

Appraisal
What happens if a weapons owner asks for your opinion on a particular piece? Again, etiquette should rule the day. If it is cheap, badly constructed or poorly maintained, say something nice before handing it back. 

The only time you should offer a critique of a weapon is if you are asked to, and even then you should be polite, since if you are reading this, chances are vastly in favour of you not being a professional appraiser. 

But for your own enjoyment, what should you be looking for? Like any other tool, a weapon should be well made. Blades should be nick-free and securely attached to the hilt. There are exceptions, though. Many kris knives from Indonesia do not have a very secure hilt, but since clothes in the area were usually light, this wasn’t considered a problem. 

The occasional blemish is acceptable on old blades, as are repairs (assuming they have been done well). Rust spots are not acceptable, likewise gaps between the parts. 

Knives generally should be very sharp, but swords are not always, or are sharpened at a more obtuse angle. Blades should be heavy enough to do the job they were intended to, but not overly heavy – a sword should feel good in the hand, like a well-designed tool. It shouldn’t feel like one is lifting a sledgehammer. For a weapon built for thrusting, the balance needs to be closer to the hand. A slashing or hacking weapon can be more tip-heavy.

Some Basic Vocabulary
Hilt – the handle of the knife or sword 

Pommel – the butt-end of the hilt, often heavy to provide a counterbalance to the weight of the blade 

Guard – also quillons, the part between the hilt and blade that protects the wielder’s hand. 

Chape – the metal cap at the end of the scabbard. 

Ricasso – the transition between the edge of the blade and the choil (see below). 

Choil – the part of the blade between the guard and where the edge starts. See ricasso. 

Spanish Notch - a decorative treatment of the choil, where a concave depression is filed out.

Spine – for single-edged blades, this is the back of the blade. For double-edged blades, this is where the slopes of each blade meet. 

False Edge – on a single-edged blade, this is a short, sharpened section of the back of the blade at the point, such as on a Bowie knife. 

Swedge – typically misidentified as a false edge, the difference being that a swedge is tapered to a thin profile, but is not actually sharp. 

Scales – the flat pieces riveted onto the hilt that form the grip. 

Jimping - decorative file work on the spine of a blade. Often seen on Scottish dirks and skean dubhs.

Note that these are all Western terms, and do not cover such intricacies as all the little whorls on a kris, or the rigorously defined areas on a katana.

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